Have you unlocked the river yet? Have you hit your female friends with a birch branch and received a painted egg in return? Have you burned the witch on the fire?
No?
Why ever not? Spring has come, and that’s what you do if you live in the Czech Republic.
On a very cold, un-springlike day in April, we ventured to a small town in Bohemian Paradise and were standing on the bank of the river, watching the bizarre events unfold. The mayor of the town had taken a key as big as himself and was now paddling out into the middle of the river and – there! Do you see it? A monster emerges from the depths of the river, takes the key and unlocks the river.
Now I’m swept up in the crowds of people taking to the water in canoes, paddling downstream in the strong current, over the weir, navigating the fast-flowing water. Oh dear, that boat didn’t quite make it… It’s floating upside down some distance from those two heads with chattering teeth.
The canoeing season has begun.
We reach the furthest point and try to come ashore – but the river is too fast and we overshoot, ending up in the reeds. With wet, muddy feet we scramble up the bank and hop onto a scooter to race back to where we started. Well, it’s supposed to be a race, but on the way back my teammate and I have a leisurely discussion about saunas.
We reach the finishing line and head straight for the fire to dry off and warm up. I spot a paddle board. Lukáš, the friend who invited me to this event, is quick to notice my interest.
‘Do you want a go?’ he asks with enthusiasm.
‘Sure!’ I say with equal enthusiasm, not really expecting it to happen.
Before I can change my mind, he’s beckoning me over, paddle in hand and board waiting patiently on the water. I step onto it gingerly. It’s been a while since I went paddle boarding, and that was on a hot summer’s day. This time it is definitively not hot.
I step back onto dry land (I’m still dry too, thank you very much) just in time to hear my name on the loud speaker. I look over to see the award ceremony taking place. There must have been some mistake. But no, Rebecca isn’t a very common name here; there can only be one boat with a Rebecca and a Rebekah.
We are second place. There were two boats competing in the women’s category. Say no more.
At school the next week, I ask my students how people in the Czech Republic celebrate Easter. I expect to hear the kids shout ‘bunny rabbit’ and ‘Easter egg hunt’ but instead the boys start to laugh and the girls look uncomfortable. One boy flicks his wrist as if he’s holding a whip and someone else says, ‘Boys hit girls.’
I stare at them. ‘What?!’
‘It’s OK. We do it gently!’
They tell me the whip is made from young birch branches and decorated with ribbons. As if that makes it any better. ‘And do the girls hit the boys?’
The boys shake their heads. ’Before midday, the girls give us painted eggs. After midday, they pour water on us.’
They see my shocked expression is no less than it was and try to explain. ‘We hit them so they stay young and beautiful.’
The girls in question still look uncomfortable. ‘I don’t think it works like that,’ I say, very glad not to be spending Easter in the Czech Republic. A long weekend with my family in Wales sounds like a much better idea.
Ten days later, I am having a go at slack-lining in Liberec when I hear drums. There is a procession of people walking along the road towards the forest. Thankfully, I have a Czech friend at hand who can clear things up. ‘What’s going on?’ I ask.
‘They’re going to burn the witches,’ he says matter-of-factly.
I fall off the slack-line. (I would have fallen off anyway.)
‘Don’t you do that in England?’ he asks. ‘The witch represents winter. On 30th April we burn the witch, say goodbye to the winter and welcome the spring.’
Guy Fawkes Night springs to mind. Not quite the same (it’s in November), but we do burn a human effigy on a fire.
‘So, let’s do it!’ Lukáš says. ‘We can have a barbecue and burn the witch!’
Did you know: the Czech Republic is the third most atheist country in the world. That might explain the pagan element to some of these traditions…
Great post 😁
Fabulous Rebecca. I learn so much about the customs and cultures of the countries you have visited form your blogs. You really do seem to be having an amazing time. xxx